I made a "custom" violin peg shaper for my workshop some years ago. I had an "Officina Claudio Monteverde" violin in the workhop which needed a new set of pegs. I noticed that the pegholes had a non-standard conical ratio so I decided to buy a so-called "irregular" peg reamer and make my own peg shaper out of a piece of suitable wood.
I chose a piece of a hard, slightly oily wood that I believe comes from Australia. I cut it out of a plank used for flooring.
For the cutter, I used a spare Stanley iron, which had the correct width and fastened it to the peg shaper with a threaded rod and a knurled wheel.
The metal is not as hard as regular peg shaper cutters, but it's much easier to sharpen. I use a 40° grinding angle.
A good improvement would be the placing of a reinforcement on the side opposite the edge of the iron.
I am planning to make another one with a larger diameter and regular shape, and use it to shave down the sticks that I use for bushing pegholes (Done - outer diameter 10mm)
Notes about my work: making and repairing violins and other bowed musical instruments
Wednesday, August 15, 2018
Bow frog - simple repair
This cello bow frog by Emilio Slaviero is decorated with an oval mother-of-pearl inlay. The inlay has been worn out completely by the player's hand perspiration and needed replacing.
The old inlay was unglued with the aid of a solvent; acetone worked well.
I selected a suitable piece of new mother-of-pearl and sawed out the oval piece with a jeweler's saw, then I finished the exact shape with files.
The new inlay was glued in with cyanoacrilate and filed down following the concave shape of the frog. Finally, the area was finished with a felt wheel and a fine rubbing compound made by the Menzerna firm.
The old inlay was unglued with the aid of a solvent; acetone worked well.
I selected a suitable piece of new mother-of-pearl and sawed out the oval piece with a jeweler's saw, then I finished the exact shape with files.
The new inlay was glued in with cyanoacrilate and filed down following the concave shape of the frog. Finally, the area was finished with a felt wheel and a fine rubbing compound made by the Menzerna firm.
Friday, August 03, 2018
Square for blocks and ribs
Having a support for a carpenter's square is handy when it's time to check the squareness of the cuts in corner blocks.
I made this jig for my Stanley square out of some pieces of a blue HDF board (high-density particle wood).
Board thickness is 12.5 mm (1/2"). This material is easy to cut and file and it's perfectly flat.
The square just slides in and it can be placed on the mould surface just over the blocks.
I made this jig for my Stanley square out of some pieces of a blue HDF board (high-density particle wood).
Board thickness is 12.5 mm (1/2"). This material is easy to cut and file and it's perfectly flat.
The square just slides in and it can be placed on the mould surface just over the blocks.
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